KOHIMA: A national-level workshop titled “Threads of Tradition: Celebrating Women Weavers” was organised at Cradle Ridge Hall, Seithogei, Kohima, on Wednesday, bringing together women engaged in traditional weaving, researchers, textile traders and government representatives to deliberate on the preservation of indigenous textile practices and the issues confronting women in the sector.
The one-day programme was organised as part of a joint research initiative undertaken by the Centre for Women’s Development Studies (CWDS), Delhi, and the Rosa Luxemburg Stiftung (RLS), South Asia Office. The study focuses on recording the experiences and working conditions of women weavers from the Angami, Chakhesang, Rengma and Yimkhiung communities of Nagaland.
As part of the research, the team had travelled to the respective villages and interacted with women weavers to understand their craft, everyday experiences and concerns. The Kohima workshop brought the participants together with local textile sellers, creating an avenue for dialogue, networking and potential market linkages.
Addressing the gathering, Prof. Neetha, Project Coordinator at CWDS, spoke about the diverse weaving traditions found across Northeast India, pointing out that different communities have distinct techniques, patterns and cultural practices associated with their textiles.
She drew attention to the limited recognition received by the women who produce these textiles, remarking, “No one asks who weaves; they only look at the beautiful weaving.” She said it was important to recognise the people and traditional knowledge behind the finished products.
Prof. Neetha explained that the study aims to bring women’s accounts of weaving into the public domain by documenting their knowledge, experiences and concerns through qualitative interviews conducted with the support of local researchers.
She described women weavers as key holders of indigenous knowledge, responsible for transmitting skills and techniques across generations. She also noted that traditional fabrics serve purposes beyond clothing and decoration, with their colours, motifs and geometric designs often conveying information about tribal identity, social standing, gender, age, cultural events and personal achievements.
“Each cloth woven is a social marker,” she observed.
While acknowledging weaving as an important livelihood for many women, she pointed to the pressures facing the traditional sector, particularly competition from inexpensive factory-made textiles and the increasing use of synthetic materials. The research, she said, would also look into how these changing market preferences are influencing traditional weaving.
She further raised the issue of limited access to government support programmes, noting that rural women weavers often struggle to benefit from schemes designed for them. The study intends to identify the factors contributing to this gap and understand the needs and expectations of the women involved.
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Prof. Neeha Naqvi of the RLS South Asia Office spoke about the importance of valuing indigenous knowledge and the experiences of communities. She said weaving should not be viewed solely as a means of earning a livelihood, describing it as the women’s “labour of love” and recognising the dedication and cultural knowledge that go into the process.
Abeni TCK Lotha, Advisor to the Naga Mothers’ Association, spoke about her longstanding interest in textiles and weaving, which she traced back to her childhood. She highlighted Nagaland’s oral traditions and the importance of recording its textile history for future generations.
Lotha also shared details of her book, Oying Motsü: The Story of Our Threads, which features several textile patterns conceptualised by her. She called for sustained efforts to safeguard the cultural inheritance passed down through generations, noting its significance to both community identity and the local economy.
Earlier, Prof. Rosemary Dzüvichü, Director of the Centre for Peace and Gender Studies, Kohima, and project consultant, introduced the workshop and outlined its objectives. She called for improved access to government schemes and institutional assistance for women weavers, especially those based in villages across Nagaland.
Interactive discussions were held with Angami, Yimkhiung and Chakhesang women weavers, along with representatives from the North Eastern Development Finance Corporation Limited (NEDFi), Nagaland Handloom and Handicrafts Development Corporation Ltd. (NHHDC) and the Investment and Development Authority of Nagaland (IDAN). The sessions focused on the concerns raised by the weavers and the support systems and opportunities available through these institutions.
The programme also included an exhibition-cum-sale featuring traditional textiles and other handcrafted products made by the participating women. The display offered the weavers an opportunity to present their work and connect with potential buyers.
