Unveiling the Elusive Nongin: A Journey of Discovery

THE ROAD to Jessami, in the north of Manipur’s hill district of Ukhrul, unravelled like a secret waiting to be told. It twisted through the hills, each turn cloaked in early morning mist, each twilight shadow whispering of something unseen. I wasn’t here for a ghost story, but what I sought was just as elusive—the Nongin, or as the world knows it, Mrs. Hume’s Pheasant (Syrmaticus humia)

For years, this bird had remained a mystery to many. This rare and little known pheasant is found throughout forested habitats of  Mizoram, Patkai Range, Manipur, Yunnan and northern parts of Myanmar and Thailand.  But here in ancestral lands, the Chakhesang community of Jessami have created a unique protected zone that promises to revive the ‘Nongin’. As of now, Jessami’s Mrs. Hume’s Pheasant Community Reserve is the only reserve in the world where the Nongin (that literally means “one who follows the track, train and movement of rain and cloud” because of its presumed ability to anticipate weather changes or cloud patterns) can roost and breed under the care and protection of the village community. Situated in the extreme north of Manipur’s Ukhrul district, the reserve lies approximately 116 km north of Ukhrul town and 135 km east of Kohima, Nagaland, near the Myanmar border.

Its numbers are protected deep within the Nongin Reserve and hidden among the ancient trees, it was not a creature that revealed itself easily. Few had seen it in the wild, and those who had, spoke of it with reverence.

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The First Clue: The Village Council

My investigation began in Jessami’s village council hall, where elders and former hunters gathered. They spoke in hushed tones, not out of secrecy, but as if they respected the very air around them. I listened intently as they explained how the Chakhesang tribesmen, once hunters of these lands, had become its fiercest protectors.

“The Nongin is not an easy bird to find,” one of the elders said, his eyes studying me. “It knows the forest better than we do. But…” he paused, a faint smile forming, “we have learned to follow its signs.”

I leaned in.

Their method was part instinct, part science. The former hunters, now turned spotters, had spent years learning the bird’s habits—where it roosted, where it fed, and how it vanished into the undergrowth at the slightest disturbance. They could read the jungle like a book, tracking faint claw marks in the damp earth, listening for the soft drumming of wings against the silence.

“If we find it,” my guide said, adjusting his hat, “you will have only a moment. The bird decides if it wants to be seen.”

The First Encounter : The Elusive Female !!

We ventured into the Nongin Reserve just as dusk seeped through the canopy. The jungle was alive but quiet, a silence that wasn’t empty—it was watching, waiting. Every step forward felt like turning a page in a mystery novel, each rustling leaf a potential clue.

The spotters moved ahead, their eyes scanning the ground, their ears tuned to the slightest shifts in the wind. At times, they would stop abruptly, motioning for me to do the same. My heart pounded.

Then, as if emerging from the forest itself, a movement in the undergrowth—there she was. The female.

She was beautiful in her own right, though her earthy tones blended almost too perfectly with the forest floor. She lingered for a moment, then melted away into the trees.

It was a victory, but an incomplete one.

Because I wasn’t just here for a glimpse—I was here for the male.

The Final Chase: The Male Reveals Itself !!

Determined, I returned the next day, this time venturing deeper into the forest. The air was heavy with anticipation, and so was I. The male was near.

The spotters whispered among themselves, eyes darting toward the treetops. Something had changed. A sound? A shadow? They knew before I did that the moment had come.

Then, one of them motioned—up.

I followed his gaze. My breath hitched.

There, perched on a thick branch, in that deathly silence of the evening, was the male Nongin.

And it was magnificent.

Its feathers shimmered—a deep chestnut back, iridescent blues on its neck, a long, elegant tail that caught the light in the most spectacular way. Nature’s perfect creation. It sat there, regal, unmoved by my presence, as if knowing it had won this game of hide-and-seek.

For a moment, time stood still. Then, with a sudden flick of its wings, it was gone.

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Reflections: From Hunters to Guardians ::

I exhaled, realizing I had been holding my breath. The spotters beside me grinned, their expressions carrying both satisfaction and pride. They had delivered on their promise—Nongin had revealed itself.

But this was more than just a sighting. It was proof of something far more powerful—the transformation of former hunters into conservationists.

For generations, hunting was a way of life in these remote hills. It was a tradition, a means of survival, and in some cases, a mark of skill and bravery. But as species like the Mrs. Hume’s Pheasant began to dwindle, a realization dawned—if the forests were emptied, what would be left for future generations? Something had to change.

And change it did. With the guidance of conservation groups, researchers, and the community’s own growing awareness, Jessami’s hunters chose a different path. Instead of tracking for the kill, they began tracking for preservation. The same skills that once made them formidable hunters now make them the best protectors of the Nongin.

A Model for Conservation: Community-Led Efforts in Northeast India ::

Jessami’s success is not an isolated case. Across Northeast India, similar stories of transformation are unfolding—examples of communities taking charge of conservation and proving that people and wildlife can coexist.

1. The Khonoma Nature Conservation and Tragopan Sanctuary (Nagaland) – Once a hunting village, Khonoma’s Angami tribe declared a 20 sq. km area a hunting-free zone to protect the endangered Blyth’s Tragopan, a stunning pheasant species like the Nongin. Today, it is one of India’s most celebrated community-led conservation success stories.
2. Arunachal Pradesh’s Singchung Bugun Village Community Reserve – The local Bugun community took it upon themselves to protect the Bugun Liocichla, a rare bird found nowhere else in the world, establishing a community reserve that balances conservation and sustainable eco-tourism.
3. Manas National Park (Assam) and the Bodo Community – Once plagued by poaching and insurgency, this UNESCO World Heritage Site saw a turnaround when the Bodo tribesmen took active roles in protecting species like the Bengal Florican and wild elephants.

These initiatives prove that when communities take ownership of conservation, species once on the brink of disappearance can thrive again.

Why We Need More Jessamis ::

The story of the Jessami Hume’s Pheasant Community Reserve is a powerful reminder that conservation doesn’t have to be dictated by governments alone. People who share the land with these species have the power to protect them.

But as much as this was a victory, it was also a stark reminder—this bird survives because people here choose to protect it. Once hunted, now guarded fiercely by those who know its worth, the Nongin is more than just a species on a conservation list. It is a symbol of change, of coexistence, of how nature and culture can intertwine in the most beautiful way.

What Jessami has achieved—turning hunters into protectors, creating a sanctuary for a vulnerable species, and preserving its natural heritage—should serve as an inspiration. More such community-led reserves can be the key to protecting Northeast India’s rich biodiversity, ensuring that rare species like the Nongin don’t just survive, but thrive.

And as I walked back through the forest, I knew that while my search had ended, the real guardians of this story—the former hunters turned conservationists—would continue their silent vigil, ensuring that the Nongin never fades into legend.

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A final word of caution for Jessami’s remarkable conservation efforts ::

With success comes opportunism. There will be those who seek to hijack Jessami’s resurgence, driven not by a love for nature but by the lure of profit. The people of Jessami must remain vigilant, scrutinizing every new “eco-tourism” initiative to ensure it serves the community and the wildlife, not just corporate greed. History has shown how unchecked commercialization—disguised as conservation—has marginalized local communities in places like Kaziranga National Park and Jim Corbett National Park. Once stewards of their land, locals were sidelined by powerful business interests, eager to exploit nature for quick profits.

Jessami must not become another cautionary tale. The future of the Nongin and its habitat must remain in the hands of those who have nurtured and protected it, not those who see it as just another commodity.

Disclaimer: This narrative is a creative interpretation of the author’s search for the Nongin, with artistic liberties taken to enhance the storytelling experience. While the events described are inspired by real encounters, some elements have been dramatized for effect. The facts surrounding Mrs. Hume’s Pheasant and the conservation efforts, however, remain accurate and true to the spirit of the author’s experience.