UKHRUL: Zohran Mamdani was sworn in as mayor of New York City on Thursday (January 1). As he took the oath at an abandoned subway station beneath City Hall, dressed in a black coat and trousers, a subtle detail stood out — a hint of gold embroidered on his tie, crafted from Assam’s Eri silk.
Silk cultivation and weaving are deeply rooted in the culture and livelihoods of many communities across India’s Northeast. Among the region’s various silks, Eri silk stands apart for its distinctive, non-violent production process, where the silkworm is allowed to emerge before the fibre is spun. It is primarily produced in Assam, Meghalaya and Nagaland.
In a fast-paced world dominated by micro-trends and fast fashion, synthetic fibres such as polyester have come to dominate global markets. While India is among the world’s leading producers of synthetic fibres, these materials rely on fossil fuels, release microplastics into water bodies, emit greenhouse gases during production, and remain non-biodegradable.
In contrast, natural fibres like silk are sustainable, breathable and biocompatible, with inherent UV- and fire-resistant properties.
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The word Eri is derived from era, the Assamese word for castor, as the silkworm feeds on castor leaves. The silk is woven on traditional looms — indigenous tools passed down through generations, with every stage, from rearing and spinning to dyeing with natural and vegetable colours, reflecting heritage and skill.
Mamdani’s tie was created by Delhi-based label Kartik Research, founded by designer Kartik Kumra in 2021. The brand focuses on handloom textiles, plant-dyed fabrics and hand embroidery, aiming to revive and reintroduce forgotten Indian crafts to a global audience.
