Jessami: A Hidden Gem of History, Wildlife, and Sustainable Tourism

NESTLED in the serene hills of Manipur, adjacent to the Phek District of Nagaland, lies Jessami, a place I once knew only through the pages of history. It was a name synonymous with World War II, a battlefield where the Allied forces halted the Japanese advance in 1944. However, my recent visit to this remote yet enchanting region revealed a world far beyond its wartime past—one brimming with breathtaking landscapes, a vibrant cultural heritage, and an inspiring conservation movement shaping its future.

A Journey Through the Hills
It was as if the universe had answered my deep-seated longing to connect with nature when I received a call from my enterprising friend, Kalpajyoti Sonowal, inviting me to join an expedition to a lesser-known region of Northeast India. Under the expert guidance of seasoned naturalist Anupam Nahardeka, our dynamic team was rounded out by the energetic Debajit Nahardeka and the affable Spondon Kaushik. The camaraderie and synergy that developed among us as we navigated the challenging terrain were truly special—a testament to the transformative power of shared adventure and a deep appreciation for the natural world.

My journey to Jessami began in Duliajan, Assam, spanning almost 500 km across the vast plains of Assam and the undulating hills of Nagaland before reaching the border of Manipur. The drive itself was a revelation—winding roads, lush greenery, and the shifting tapestry of cultures along the way. As I crossed into Manipur’s Ukhrul district, I was greeted by an untouched beauty that words can scarcely do justice. Initially, I harbored concerns about the volatile political climate in Manipur, which had witnessed intense unrest over several months. As a traveler, the last thing you want is for external factors to disrupt your plans. Fortunately, as I discovered later, Jessami has remained an oasis of calm, untouched by the ethnic conflicts that have plagued Manipur.

Also read | Families of WWII veterans from UK walk 39 hrs by foot from Jessami to Kohima to honor fallen soldiers

Despite its geographical location, Jessami shares a deep historical and cultural affinity with Nagaland. The Chakhesang people here, predominantly of Naga heritage, have preserved their traditions with a reverence that is both admirable and humbling. The unwavering respect of the Jessami community for nature is palpable in every aspect of their land—a profound philosophy that has garnered renewed recognition in recent years. This resurgence is largely attributed to the tireless efforts of local conservationists and visionaries, including Dr. Weyepe Mekrisu and Mr. Asset Wezha, two enterprising individuals with whom I had the privilege of engaging in meaningful discussions during my visit. I was also deeply impressed by the remarkable resilience and dedication of the Jessami Village Council members, who are steadfastly committed to preserving their natural heritage.

A Conservation Success Story
There was a time when Jessami was merely a hunting ground, its forests echoing with the sounds of gunfire rather than birdsong. Poaching was rampant, smuggling routes crisscrossed the landscape, and deforestation was stripping the hills of their lush green cloak. But as the saying goes, “Every sunset brings the promise of a new dawn,” and Jessami’s dawn arrived with the tireless efforts of conservationists and community leaders.

Through their initiatives, the area has transformed into a wildlife haven, attracting eco-tourists and birdwatchers from far and wide. One name I found frequently mentioned in Jessami’s revival story was that of renowned wildlife photographer and conservationist Dhritiman Mukherjee, whose documentation of the region’s avian wonders sparked a new wave of conservation interest.

Today, the forests of Jessami are alive with the calls of exotic birds like the rare Moustached Laughingthrush and the elusive Chinese Francolin. But the crown jewel of this avian paradise is the Mrs. Hume’s Pheasant, also known locally as the Nongin—Manipur’s state bird, a species as rare as it is resplendent. Spotting and photographing this magnificent bird in the Nongin Reserve was a privilege I will cherish forever.

As of now, Jessami’s Mrs. Hume’s Pheasant Community Reserve is the only reserve in the world where the Nongin (which literally means “one who follows the track, train, and movement of rain and cloud” because of its presumed ability to anticipate weather changes or cloud patterns) can roost and breed under the care and protection of the village community. Situated in the extreme north of Manipur’s Ukhrul district, the reserve lies approximately 116 km north of Ukhrul town and 135 km east of Kohima, Nagaland, near the Myanmar border. Established in 2022 under the stewardship of the Jessami Village Council, its primary goal is to safeguard the dwindling population of the indigenous and exquisite Mrs. Hume’s pheasant while preserving and nurturing its natural habitat.

When I inquired more about the backstory of the creation and development of the “Nongin Community Reserve,” what struck me most was the shift in the local mindset. Many former hunters have now become protectors of the very forests they once exploited. Trained as nature guides, they now lead treks and birdwatching tours, showcasing their homeland with a newfound sense of pride. As they say, “A change in perspective is worth 80 IQ points,” and the transformation in Jessami’s people is a testament to this wisdom.

Also read | Chasing Cherry Blossoms and Jadoh in Shillong: a reminiscence

A Living Legacy of World War II
Beyond its natural splendor, Jessami holds a place of honor in military history. The Battle of Jessami, fought in March 1944, was a turning point in the war. Outnumbered, the Allied forces—specifically the Assam Regiment—displayed extraordinary courage, delaying the Japanese advance long enough for reinforcements to reach Kohima.

Walking through the village, I came across a small yet poignant war memorial, a solemn tribute by the Assam Regiment to the bravery of those who fought here. In the village council office, relics from the battle tell the story of a time when these peaceful hills were torn apart by war. Foreign visitors often arrive, tracing the footsteps of their grandfathers who fought here, adding a deeply personal dimension to Jessami’s history.

As a matter of fact, I learned from Dr. Mekrisu that last year in March, a poignant tribute was paid to the war veterans of World War II. Family members and well-wishers from the United Kingdom embarked on a remarkable 39-hour walk from Jessami village in Manipur’s Ukhrul district to Kohima in Nagaland. This journey was particularly significant, as it retraced the steps of the 1st Assam Regiment’s brave withdrawal from Jessami to Kohima during World War II. Among the 26 walkers from the UK was Charlotte Carty, the granddaughter of Lieutenant Colonel William Felix (‘Bruno’) Brown, who commanded the 1st Assam Regiment during the first battle with the Japanese army in Jessami. The regiment’s valiant efforts during the battle from March 28 to April 1, 1944, allowed reinforcements to arrive in Kohima, a crucial turning point in the war. The walkers’ 124-kilometer journey was a testament to the regiment’s endurance and bravery.

According to history books, the original withdrawal, undertaken by approximately 260 men, spanned 29 miles of direct distance and around 60 miles of winding paths and tracks across sub-Himalayan terrain. Despite being in frequent contact with Japanese forces, the regiment completed this remarkable feat in just 39 hours, arriving in Kohima on April 3, 1944.

Also read | Ukhrul’s border village Jessami to promote battlefield tourism

The Road Ahead: Sustainable Development in Jessami
While Jessami has made remarkable progress, the road to sustainable development is still being paved. There are challenges—deforestation, hill burning, and the need for alternative livelihood opportunities—but these are not insurmountable. Here are some key areas that require immediate attention:

1. Conservation-Integrated Agriculture
   Agriculture is the lifeblood of Jessami’s people, but it must coexist with conservation efforts. Establishing protected zones around agricultural lands can help maintain ecological balance while ensuring farmers’ livelihoods remain unaffected.
2. Curbing Hill Burning and Habitat Destruction
   Traditional hill burning for land clearance has devastating effects on wildlife, particularly birds. Sustainable land management practices need to be introduced to protect these fragile ecosystems.
3. Reforestation and Green Cover Restoration
   With increasing infrastructure development, habitat loss is inevitable. A well-planned afforestation drive post-construction can help restore lost greenery and encourage biodiversity to flourish once again.
4. Employment Through Ecotourism
   Ecotourism holds the key to Jessami’s economic future. Trekking, birdwatching, and heritage tourism can provide employment while fostering a conservation mindset. Skill development programs for local youth in hospitality, guiding, and communication will enhance the tourism experience and attract more visitors.
5. Expanding Protected Reserves
   While the Nongin Reserve is a commendable initiative, more protected areas are needed to safeguard the region’s unique wildlife. Establishing new reserves and research centers can bolster conservation efforts while promoting environmental awareness.
6. Promoting Local Handicrafts and Souvenirs
   Tourism thrives when visitors take home memories—not just in their minds, but in tangible forms. Introducing locally crafted souvenirs, fridge magnets, and handicrafts, much like those found in Goa or Thailand, can provide an additional source of income for artisans and ensure that Jessami remains in the hearts of those who visit.

Must-Do Activities in Jessami (Beyond Birdwatching)

1. Trek to Jessami Peak (1,679m): Hike to the summit with local guides for a breathtaking bird’s-eye view of the village, the majestic Saramati and Yessami mountain ranges, and the scenic Thetsii River valley.
2. Explore the Local Market: Discover and purchase exotic local delicacies like Yongchak (stinky bean), a prized ingredient in regional cuisine.
3. Visit the Mighty Tizu River: Witness the grandeur of the Tizu River as it flows along the northwestern flank of Jessami village. With its strong currents and scenic surroundings, the river holds great potential for future river rafting adventures.

Also read | Tourists from UK and Switzerland visits Jessami in Ukhrul Distt

A Call to Action
To sum it up, Jessami is more than just a destination—it is a lesson in resilience, a symbol of hope, and a testament to the power of community-driven change. It is a place where history whispers through the hills, where nature sings in the treetops, and where people stand as guardians of their land.

As travelers, storytellers, and conservationists, we must do our part. Visit Jessami. Write about it. Photograph it. Share its story with the world. By doing so, we not only celebrate its past but also contribute to its future.

As the saying goes, “We do not inherit the earth from our ancestors; we borrow it from our children.” Let us ensure that Jessami’s forests, history, and people thrive for generations to come.

Also read | Amit Shah Credits Modi Govt for Northeast’s 70% Drop in Violence, Promises Jobs and Development